Bromeliads have simple requirements:
The potting medium may be organic, inorganic (soilless), or a combination of
the two. The main points to remember are to provide quick drainage and firm
support. Plastic pots hold moisture well; clay pots require more frequent
watering. Dark plastic pots may get hot in the sun and injure roots; clay pots
accumulate mineral salts and algae.
The soil line should only reach the base of the leaves; if too high, the plant
may not be stable; if too deep, the plant may rot. A pot near the diameter of
the plant is usually selected: a smaller pot can restrict root growth; a
larger pot allows roots to spread. Under/over-potting may be called
for to achieve proper growth for a given species.
Most epiphytic (attached to a tree) and saxicolous (attached to a rock)
bromeliads develop hold-fast roots. The plant must be firmly affixed to its
support so that the tender root tips can attach to the support.
Almost anything is usable for a mounting surface: cork slabs, stone
pieces, wood slabs, lava rock, driftwood, large fishing floats. Salts must be
removed from items that have been in sea water. Soaking for two weeks,
completely submerged, with frequent water changes, is recommended.
Since bromeliads, in their natural habitat, grow under such varied
conditions as: rain forest, cloud forest, nightly fog or heavy morning dew, the
rule of thumb for watering is: water well and allow to dry before watering
again. Tank type bromeliads are those that hold water in the cup and leaf
axils; frequent flushing by pouring fresh water over the plant, inverting and
filling again is recommended to prevent stagnation and buildup mineral salts.
The quality of the water is important. Tap water can generally be used for
watering the pots. Better results are obtained by using rain, distilled or
reverse-osmosis water for the tanks.
Moist air is as important as proper watering. If the humidity drops, mist
the plants. Normally, 50% relative humidity will suffice.
Since these are naturally outdoor plants that receive constant air movement,
they will be healthier if the air does not stagnate.
Rot and fungus are about the only diseases that bother bromeliads. These are
nearly always related to over-watering or bad potting mix. An organic mix will
break down after two or three years, and become soggy. This, in turn, allows
roots to rot and fungus to grow. Scale and mealy bugs are easily controlled with
the commercial Cygon 2E. If the plants are grown outside, other chewing and
sucking insects should be controlled as with any other plant.
Notes on Specific Genera
Generally available genera are listed below with some guidelines for their
cultivation. There are exceptions for every rule, and whatever growing method
that works for you is the best.
Easily grown, dependable bloomers, and an interesting array of colors, form
and foliage, these genera are very popular. These are tank-type bromeliads, and
attention should be given to flushing the tanks. Give them moderate to bright
light, protect from wind damage and feed monthly with 20-20-20 fertilizer at
half strength. They may be either potted or mounted.
These tank-type bromeliads are some of the most spectacular foliage plants in
cultivation. For the best color: place the plants in bright light to full sun;
water less frequently; and use a low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 5-59-10) at
quarter strength weekly in the pot only. Under-pot in a loose mix with little
organic matter.
These truly terrestrial plants, also known as "earth stars",
naturally grow on the rainforest floor in the rich humus. Bright but diffused
light, a lot of water and regular feeding with 20-20-20 fertilizer will bring
out all their color and enhance their interesting shape. Over-pot since the root
system is spreading and shallow. They are not usually suitable for mounting.
Contrary to their appearance (being often mistaken for some kind of cactus
or succulent) these thorny plants love big pots, water and fertilizer. Over-pot
in clay pots for best results.
There are two types of this genus: those with green or soft leaves, and
those with grey or hard leaves. The rule of thumb is to mount the hard-leaved
types, and to pot the soft-leaved types. The hard-leaved types like bright light
and to receive water and fertilizer by spraying or occasionally soaking. They
must drain and dry quickly. The soft-leaved types are tank-type bromeliads and
should be potted and grown similarly to Neoregeilas with less light.
Being sensitive to heat, wet roots, mineral salts, and stagnant water, this
group of bromeliads is a little more difficult to grow than others, but the
rewards of having some of the most beautiful bromeliads are worth the extra
effort. To insure success: pot, place in moderate light, maintain high humidity
and good air movement. Take care with their soft leaves that are subject to
wind and chewing-insect damage.
Such variable plants mean that some type of bromeliad is ideal for your
conditions. Some hints to help you succeed are:
Do
Don't
Potting
Mounting
Watering
Humidity
Air Circulation
Disease and Pests
Aechmea and Billbergia
Neoregelia
Cryptanthus
Dyckia and Hechtia
Tillandsia
Guzmania, Nidularium and Vriesa